Democracy Dies in Darkness

This thrilling Spanish red wine delivers impressive value for $19

Plus an incredible Italian red that punches way above its price point and a perennial favorite rosé for early fall sipping.

2 min
FROM LEFT: Goros Monastrell-Syrah 2019; Famille Fabre Domaine Aureillan Rosé Côtes de Provence 2023; Kellerei-Cantina Andrian Rubeno Lagrein 2022. (Scott Suchman/for The Washington Post)
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This week we have two thrilling red wines — from Spain and Italy — that, while not at rock-bottom prices, deliver tremendous value for the money. And a favorite rosé from Provence, ideal for late-summer sipping, returns for a reprise.

GREAT VALUE

Goros Monastrell-Syrah 2019

(3.5 stars)

Alicante, Spain, $19

I raved about this winery’s 2020 tempranillo back in March, and this blend of monastrell (the Spanish name for mourvèdre) and syrah is just as impressive. It even has two advantages over the tempranillo — an extra year in bottle has helped the flavors of sagebrush, wild mushroom and black pepper mesh into a seamless palate. And it’s a few dollars cheaper. Certified organic, vegan. Alcohol by volume: 14 percent. Bottle Weight: 415 grams (Light).

Imported by Artadi USA. Distributed locally by Salveto Imports.

Famille Fabre Domaine Aureillan Rosé Côtes de Provence 2023

(3 stars)

Provence, France, $26

This salmon-colored rosé is a perennial favorite of mine. It has a tannic grip with flavors of cantaloupe, wild thyme and sea salt, as if capturing a Mediterranean breeze in your glass. This winery also produces the Cap au Large rosé I recommended last month. ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 405 grams (Light).

Imported and distributed locally by Elite Wines.

GREAT VALUE

Kellerei-Cantina Andrian Rubeno Lagrein 2022

(4 stars)

Alto Aldige, Italy, $27

More savory than fruity, this gorgeous wine seems to channel the spirit of the Italian Alps. Spice and herbs, meat and mushrooms, some funky aroma from a cheese waiting on the sideboard in the next room, a whiff of smoke from the hearth. It’s all here. ABV: 13.5 percent. BW: 545 grams (Average).

Imported and distributed locally by Banville Wine Merchants.

Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers, distributors, and your favorite local wine store. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. Bottle weight is included, because this is the single most important contributor to wine’s carbon footprint. Have wine questions for Dave McIntyre? Send them to Food@washpost.com.

Legend

★ Good: The wine delivers what it promises at a fair price. If it says chardonnay, it tastes like chardonnay.

★★ Excellent: A wine with character and added interest. May elevate your eyebrows at the first sip.

★★★ Extraordinary: An exciting wine that stands out from others in its class. Fist-pumping, table-thumping good.

★★★★ Sublime: Otherworldly. May have you thinking, “So this is what they were talking about.”